Monday, June 2, 2014

The Fate of Religious Empires, and Their Importance to Turkey Today

By AJ Steinmetz

To most Americans, Turkey is a country that is thought of ambiguously. It is in the Middle East, so aren’t they Muslim? Doesn’t that mean they have Sharia law, and hate Americans? These sentiments are far from the facts about the modern nation-state of Turkey, but Turkey’s geographical location does not stop us from viewing it with some suspicion. Perhaps because it borders countries like Iraq, Iran and Syria, these concerns are not completely unreasonable. But what I have found is that though Turkey is a crossroads of sorts between Europe and the Middle East, the Turkish people share more cultural material with the west than with explicitly Islamic countries. Sometimes this gap between Turkey and countries like Saudi Arabia is surprisingly large, maybe even larger than the religious-political contrast between the United States and Saudi Arabia. However, even a brief overview of Turkish history can reveal some reasons for this.
Asia Minor essentially acts as a large land bridge between Europe and Asia. For this reason, it was constantly crossed and conquered by armies. This began with the Hittites but also includes historical figures like Xerxes and Alexander the Great. Especially during the Roman era, Asia Minor was a particularly patriotic area in the Roman Empire. Worship of the emperors as gods was not something ordered by Rome and brought to the area. Rather, it sprung up from the peoples’ appreciation for the Empire. It was in this religious-political environment that the first Christians experienced persecution, and only because their theological worldview could not allow them to declare that Caesar is Lord. By the 4th century, Christianity was not only a tolerated religion, but the official religion of the Eastern Roman Empire. The emperor became the Vicar of Christ, and his Empire was the actual Kingdom of God breaking into the world talked about by Jesus in the gospels.

Under these circumstances, fringe Christian groups who did not adhere to the creeds produced by certain ecumenical gatherings were heavily persecuted, including the church that is today the Orthodox Coptic Church of Egypt. In addition to this, many pagan shrines were torn down, statues destroyed, and temples converted into churches. By the 10th century, the Seljuk Turks had begun conquering the exhausted Byzantine Empire. The Turks, who were Sunni Muslims, would eventually go on to gain control of Constantinople, the center of the Eastern Orthodox world. The Ottoman Sultans were the ultimate protectors of Islam, and continued to war with Christendom in Europe for centuries.
The Temple of Aphrodite in Aphrodisias is an excellent example of a goddess temple later converted into a Christian church
                 For thousands of years empires have risen and fallen in Asia Minor, and often these empires had strong religious connections. It is no surprise that after World War I, with the Ottoman Empire all but eliminated, Atatürk sought to found an explicitly secular government. Over and over again we have heard from Turks how proud they are of their secular government; that women had the right to vote in Turkey before they could in France; that they are free to drink and eat whatever they see fitting. Often in more heavily populated areas like Izmir, Turkish flags include a portrait of Ataturk on them. This is a bizarre notion to us – we respect the contributions of leaders like George Washington and Abraham Lincoln, but it would almost be patriotic sacrilege to include their face on the American flag!
A typical street in Izmir--a flag with Atatürk on it hangs from a window
                During my homestay in Izmir, I experienced something that perfectly highlights the tension in Turkey between its cult of secularism and Muslim identity. Our host mother’s brother was explaining to us over dinner that it was a Muslim holiday. Specifically, the day that Muhammad ascended into heaven from the Dome of the Rock and returned to Mecca at the end of. He offered to take us to a mosque in order to view the unique ceremonies that were taking place on this day. And of course we wanted to! The brother, was an open and kind man, and when we talked to him about what it meant to be a Muslim, he stressed love and peace as the virtues that drew him to the faith of his forefathers.
Mosque in the center of Izmir at afternoon prayer
But the idea of bringing us to a mosque sent our house father into a near frenzy; fast, angry Turkish shot across the room back and forth. Our house father was not just secular but irreligious, and quite proud to be. He had a small collection of used whiskey and Jägermeister bottles in the corner for decorations, and kept a Guy Fawkes mask in the backseat of his car, “for the riots,” he explained. Eventually our curiosity won out, and we rushed to the mosque and rushed back so as to not upset our house father any further. It seems the damage had already been done as he would not stop texting his brother-in-law over and over while we were attending the service. When we got back, he asked me why we went to the mosque instead of going to the pool or some other activity. I explained that the pool is nice, but the mosque is something that is still foreign and unique to us. “Well, you will have to choose between this world, and the other one. You can’t have both,” he said.
This seems to be the attitude of most Turks – a surprising notion to a westerner. But again, considering Turkey’s long history of religiously fueled empires and its current neighboring states, it appears to be a reasonable response. More than anything, the Turks fear losing the liberties that their secular government allows them. They look to their east and see Iran, swallowed by an Islamic regime. They look to their southeast and see Iraq, swamped with religiously inspired violence. And now, they look to their southern border as well, to Syria, which may turn into the worst of the many catastrophes in the modern Middle East. The Turks have great counterexamples to their own secular government, and it causes them to hold onto it even stronger. Perhaps they value secularism over democracy itself, but perhaps that is also reasonable of them.
Scene on the streets of Konya--as we more further eastward in our trip to the more conservative and more Islam observant areas, the head scarves on the streets and minarets dotting the horizon continue to increase.

A letter to the Church of Laodicea


The last of the seven churches that Paul wrote to, and that we visited, is Laodicea. The city was located in a fertile valley at the intersection of two rivers with the nearby cities of Heiropolis and Colosae. We heard from Dr. John Yeatts in the theater, from which you can see the calcium cliffs of Heiropolis.
Eric is showing us how close Colossae and the rivers that intersect near there are to the ancient city of Laodicea.
John in the Theater of Laodicea. From here you can easily see Hierapolis (with hot water spring and white calcium cliffs) as the small white patch behind him.
The Witnessing Church VI: Poor, Rich Christians
“For you say, ‘I am rich, I have prospered, and I need nothing.’  You do not realize that you are wretched, pitiable, poor, blind, and naked.”
            The world has always been fascinated with the spending habits of the fabulously wealthy.  About thirty years before John wrote Revelation, at the banquets hosted by Emperor Nero the roses could alone cost $100,000.  His successor Emperor Vitellius loved rare delicacies like peacock’s brains and nightingale tongues.  In one year, most of his $20,000,000 outlay of funds was for food.  One Roman, after squandering his fortune, committed suicide because he could not live on the mere $300,000 that remained.
            In more recent times, King Farouk of Egypt fled his country leaving a stamp collection worth hundreds of thousands of dollars and various expensive pieces of gold and diamonds.  The rest he spent in resorts around the world.  Frank Sinatra was reputed to have hired a man whose only job was to distribute solid gold cigarette lighters to people Sinatra liked.  Comedian Jerry Lewis is said to have owned twenty-three automobiles, and purchased four Lincolns at one time. 
            Many other stories could be told about people who can squander fortunes and still have plenty more to spend.  We often envy those people.  Yet it is often the case that the richer a person is materially, the poorer he is spiritually.  Sociologist Peter Berger says that affluent youth who have been sheltered from suffering and poverty do not seek out the comfort of religion.  On the national level, the wealthiest countries have experienced a severe decline in church attendance while people flock to churches in the poorest countries of the world. Indeed, the church has always seemed to grow more among the poor that the rich.
            So it seems clear that material riches are no guarantee of spiritual wealth.  Indeed, the opposite seems to be true.  Material wealth often brings with it spiritual poverty.  At least, that was true of the Christians John addressed in Laodicea.  Laodicea was one of the wealthiest cities in the ancient world.  The town was so wealthy that it could finance its own rebuilding after the great earthquake that also destroyed Philadelphia about thirty-five years before John wrote Revelation. 
            Originally built as a fortress, Laodicea was located better for trade than for war because it lay on the great road to the East at a point where three roads met.  It was a crossroads trade center.  Several characteristics of the commerce of Laodicea are relevant to the letter John wrote to them.  Laodicea was a great banking and financial center, a manufacturing center for black woolen cloth used in mass-produced clothing and carpets, and the location of a medical school famous for eye powder called tefra frigia. 
The church in Laodicea may have been founded, along with those in Hieropolis and Colossae, by the Colossian Epaphras during Paul’s ministry in Ephesus.  Epaphras’s name has been found on a marble block in Laodicea.  Paul may have visited there and wrote a letter to the church (Col.4:16).  Nevertheless, by time of John, the church in Laodicea was lukewarm spiritually.  Like the church in Sardis, they were nominal Christians, complacent and self-satisfied.  Laodicea is the only church for which Christ has no word of praise.  Some believe that Laodicea is most like the church in the twentieth century, but that is to look at the world through the eyes of the rich church nations like the United States.  Indeed, as we have seen, each of the seven churches has characteristics of the church today.
            The names chosen for Christ in this letter are not in the vision Christ in chapter 1.  The “Amen” and the “faithful and true witness” both affirm that Christ’s witness is reliable, which  contrasts with the Laodicean’s ,whose witness was compromised by materialistic concerns.  Christ is also the origin and source of God’s creation which will be restored when Christ’s kingdom comes.  The Laodicean Christians are criticized for their failure to bear witness to that kingdom.
            Christ uses the metaphor of lukewarm water to characterize their unfaithfulness.  They are neither hot nor cold.  The word “hot” is used for boiling water, and “cold” for freezing water.  Violent opposition to the Christ’s kingdom would have been better than a lukewarm support.  They can me contrasted to the Ephesian Christians who are holding firm in the face of opposition. 
Christ says that he will spew them out of his mouth.  That reaction seems too strong.  Lukewarm water may not be as soothing as hot water or as refreshing as ice cold water, but it is not nauseating.  Indeed, many people in the world prefer a lukewarm drink to one that is hot or cold.  The image likely comes from the mineral springs in Heirapolis, six miles away, which was the water supply for Laodicea.  The water left a lime deposit on the aqueduct through which it was transported.  This may have created the image of nausea that Christ uses. 
            Christ’s message to the Laodiceans is ironic when we understand it in connection with the wealth of Laodicea.   He tells the rich Christians in this banking and financial center to come to Christ for gold purified by divine fire so that they can become spiritually rich.  Christians in Laodicea, a town famous for mass production of garments must come to Christ for pure white robes to cloth their nakedness.  Christians in the city that produced the most famous eye powder in the world must come to Christ for salve to anoint their eyes so that they can truly see.  In summary, Christ says, “For you say, ‘I am rich, I have prospered, and I need nothing.’  You do not realize that you are wretched, pitiable, poor, blind, and naked.”  What powerful indictment!
            Christ announces that because he loves them, he will discipline them to call them to repentance.  No matter how cold and lifeless the Laodiceans are, the persistent initiative of Christ calls them to repent.  Their punishment is not punitive but corrective.  The motivation for the discipline is love, and its purpose is repentance.  The image is powerful: “Listen!  I am standing at the door knocking.”  Christ is constantly knocking.  If the Laodiceans hear and open, he will enter and eat with them.  This clearly refers to the marriage supper of the lamb which Christ will share with his witnesses who are faithful to the end.
            Moreover, the faithful witnesses will join Christ on God’s throne.  By conquering in persecution, the witnesses follow Christ who likewise conquered in the face of crucifixion.  Christ inaugurated the kingdom when he died on the cross, but we continue the battle to establish Christ’s kingdom until he returns to bring it to completion.
            A Christian mother listened as one of her sons describe his brother’s accumulation of wealth.  He spoke of his brother’s money, his luxurious home, his cars.  Finally, he summarized, “He is really getting on in the world.” 
            The mother looked at her son seriously and asked, “Which world?”
            The Christians in Laodicea were rich by this world’s standards, but by Christ’s standards they were poor, naked, and blind.  North Americans are the wealthiest people in the world, but our wealth has made us lukewarm witnesses.  Christ will spew us out of his mouth  to punish us for placing our riches ahead of his kingdom.  The good news is that we can repent and become faithful witnesses for Christ the Lamb.

 

Sing: Beneath the Cross of Jesus

Beneath the cross of Jesus I fain would take my stand, the shadow of a mighty rock within a weary land;
a home within the wilderness, a rest upon the way, from the burning of the noontide heat, and the burden of the day.
Upon that cross of Jesus mine eye at times can see the very dying form of One who suffered there for me;
and from my stricken heart with tears two wonders I confess: the wonders of redeeming love and my unworthiness.
I take, O cross, thy shadow  for my abiding place; I ask no other sunshine than the sunshine of his face;
content to let the world go by, to know no gain nor loss, my sinful self my only shame, my glory all the cross.
Elizabeth C. Clephane

Pray:  O Christ, the faithful and true witness, the origin of God’s creation, we confess that many of us have everything that we can afford.  Yet these possessions have robbed us of our witness for your kingdom.  We renounce our materialistic bent and ask that you will make us conquerers who will join you on your father’s throne.  Through your name we pray, Amen.

Where the Water Runs Lukewarm

by David Carter

First comes the discovery where someone either researches and scours the country side for signs of city limits or someone like on an episode of Law and Order is out jogging and stumbles across some rubble.  It could be a pillar, a piece of carved marble, remains of an ancient fountain.  The discovery of an archeological site causes a crash of excitement that reaches academia and echoes into our history books.
The main Roman road in Laodicea runs from east to west across Anatolia (modern day Turkey). It began in Ephesus with all the mileage numbers climbing from there and going into Syria. Paul would have walked across Anatolia on this road.

After the discovery begins the funding.  In Turkey the government subsidizes only a fraction of a projected archeological budget.  The rest needs to be privately funded by universities, gasoline providers, automotive manufacturers, and anyone else who wants their corporate logo on history.  Who ever can assemble the funds gains the rights to dig and discover.  That is why archeologists from different nations have all had their hands on places like Ephesus.  Someone before them could no longer foot the bill.

The Roman theater at Laodicea. In the background, you can see the white cliffs of Pamukkale/Hierapolis


Next, once the site is deemed visitable come the admissions booths, the water closets, the security, the vendors, and other products of hospitality.  What are you willing to pay to feel history beneath your feet? It is almost impossible to avoid looking like a tourist in a city founded thousands of years ago.  Try not to complain about the prices of ice cream.

Archeology  provides its best guess as to how the puzzle pieces of ancient rubble fit together in the past.  No one's grandparents are old enough to claim that the main agora was only "this big" and faced "that" way "back in their day."  Plenty of research goes into these best guesses, but like other sciences they can always be proven wrong. 

Laodicea, a Roman city named after Antiochus II's wife, acted as a trade center between Ephesus and Syria.  With its banking and textile industry Laodicea became wealthy establishing itself as a large city.
Even today, the modern cities built near the ancient cities of Lycian River Valley--Laodicea, Hierapolis, and Colossae--still have a rich textile industry as we discovered when we visited this textile outlet.
It can be noted that Christianity took a strong hold there as about twenty four byzantine era churches have been found within the city limits.  Earthquakes have greatly impacted the city over time.  One earthquake in particular was recorded to have razed the city to the ground in 60 A.D.  The administrators of the city found themselves well off enough to refuse Roman financial assistance in rebuilding the city.  Laodicea rebuilt without outside assistance.


One of the many Byzantine Christian churches. It is now being renovated by archaeologists

Also of note, Laodicea contained a medical school.  Demosthenes Philalethes was a graduate who became reknown for writing an early text on opthalmology and the study of the eye.  He also produced an eye treatment cream called Phrygian powder.

Walking up the steps to Apollo's Temple in Laodicea
Some of the famous aqueduct pipes of Laodicea
Laodicea is most commonly known as one of the seven churches written to by John in the book of Revelation.  The letters text contains references to water.  Water was transported to Laodicea by Roman aqueducts from Pamukkale's hots springs and cold waters from Colossae.  Even within close proximity to Laodicea, once the water arrived from either destination poured into the city's cisterns, wells, and fountains lukewarm.  This as well as the popular eye salve from the medical school are most likely what John is alluding to in his letter.

There is still much to uncover of Laodicea.  Its stadium and two theaters remain mostly unexcavaited.  Countless mosaics lie protected beneath volcanic gravel protecting them from tourist footfalls.  Laodicea was eventually abandoned after another earthquake razed the city again in 494 A.D.  The city was abandoned and rebuilt elsewhere.

Here at this site of Turkey's old history, it's ancient past we journey.  As long as archeologists scrape together sponsors, Christian tourists make their pilgrimages, and ice cream is sold, Laodicea will have a future.

Dan, Taylor, and Dave sporting their Tutku T-shirts in the Temple of Apollo


Tutku is the Turkish Word for Passion.

White Calcium Cliffs of Pammukale
Passion. If I had to describe this trip in one word, it would be passion. I have been struck by the way that passion is and has been displayed in this beautiful country. Yesterday, we spent the afternoon hanging out on the calcium cliffs of Pamukkale (formerly known as Hierapolis) where hot springs pour out over a mountain fortified by the calcium that is deposited by the water. As you can see from the pictures, they are literally awe-some. They filled me with awe as I splashed my feet in the water and hiked up and down the cliffs. As I walked back from the cliffs to the bus, I told my friend, “Isn’t God so cool?!” He created this earth with passion, intricately weaving chemicals and elements into a world that His creation could experience freely. From calcium cliffs to ferry boat rides to Patmos, I have been amazed that our God would love us so much that He wanted us to experience these beautiful things.

Elaborate Marble designs in Aphrodisias
Not only have I experienced the passionate creativity of God, but of His people too. As I have walked around archeological sites that have been here for thousands of years (by the way, I did the math, and America is only 238 years old which is chump change compared to cities like Ephesus), I have seen the passion of the Roman empire. Much can be said of the empire both positively and negatively, but you have to hand it to them, they were passionate. Everything from the elaborate designs of marble buildings in Aphrodisias to just the effort of lifting actual tons of marble to create humongous temples and homes, it screams passion. What else would motivate one to spend years building a temple or chiseling a marble chunk into a finely designed sculpture of the emperor?
Today, we spent the morning in Laodicea, a rich, ancient city that was destroyed by earthquakes and continually rebuilt. Our guide, Cenk, spent a while explaining part of the Roman culture of slavery during that period and the lifestyle of many people during that time. Rich Romans bought slaves (usually captives of imperialized lands) and filled their households with them to serve their families. They spent hundreds of denarii and sesterces buying some slaves to have as gladiators, entertainers, and companions. Today Cenk gave us a glimpse into the culture of the Roman elite of the time, their desire to experience the world for all that it could offer. This isn’t innately a bad thing, at least in my opinion. I fully believe that God gave us senses and strength and curiosity so that we could experience the incredible things that He created, to His glory, however, the Romans, just like we do today, exploited that gift.  
The Emperor, being crowned by a god.
From the Temple to the Roman Caesar, you can see the white cliffs of Pamukkale.

Silk worm pods being separated for Turkish silk carpets
The Romans were passionate about experiencing life, and that is what I have seen of the Turkish people on this trip. I have witnessed Turkish men sitting in the shade in the hot afternoon, sipping tea and Turkish coffee (which is quite the experience) enjoying the company of their closest friends. I have seen women weave detailed designs into silk carpets, extracting silk from silk worm pods and patiently dyeing the silk for use. I have eaten amazing dinners that took the entire day to prepare by my host mother’s mom. I have loved watching the way that Turkish families work together to raise their children with a free hand, spoiling them with affection and ice cream (which I too have spoiled myself with on this trip). My host mother sat with us at dinner and told us about the way that she chooses to live her life (on the coast, outdoors, with good food) and I found myself jealous of her. I realized that often times in our American culture, we cultivate this work ethic that doesn’t allow for the time to live passionately.

Passion. That is what I have learned about the most on this trip. I want to live my life with an element of stopping to have Turkish tea, to walk upon calcium cliffs, to eat the baklava, to jump around on ancient ruins, and to do the things that God would have me do. That is what I’ll be taking home with me, so watch out mom!
-Julia
                                          
Ferry boat ride to Patmos, Greece

Btw, our tour company's name--Tutku--means "Passion" tours, so we've been riding the passion bus for two weeks now!